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Breitling wathes revived typical 1984 version of the Chronomat just last year, right down to the signature Rouleaux bracelet. Now the brand ups the ante with the introduction of the Super Chronomat, a larger, 44 milimeter watch that’s available in two guises: the actual B01 chronograph and more interestingly, a wathe combined with the “1461” four-year calendar that was each signature complication for Omega.
At a time where brands are downsizing their best known designs, the Breitling Super Chronomat bucks the excitement. Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the particular Chronomat “is a watch you are getting to get noticed in without having to worry about it” says Breitling chief executive Georges Kern in the launch announcement. I’m inclined to agree – the new Extremely Chronomat definitely makes a statement.
With the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet and large pushers, typically the Super Chronomat possesses a temerity within design that is reminiscent of Panerai in the mid 2000s when the brand favoured excessive dimension, but packaged in a modern manner. That said, the new Very Chronomat collection has a cool 1980s vibe as well, particularly with the UTC module that is an option on the Super Chronomat B01.
Then there’s often the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar, which features a semi-perpetual calendar. Formerly the flagship complication for Breitling, the exact calendar is known as the 1461 after the number of days in four years. Both useful as well as affordable, the very complication was missing from Breitling’s catalogue for some time, so I’m heartened to see its return.
Along with the recently-launched Datora (which boasts a chronograph and also triple calendar) and the split-second Duograph, the main Super Chronomat 44 Four year Calendar reflects the brand’s progression towards complicated timepieces, and I am all for it.
Starting at US$8, 500 for the B01 chronograph on a rubber strap, the new Chronomat chronograph is slightly higher priced than the smaller sized model, though not by much.
The Excellent Chronomat forty-four Four-Year Calendar costs US$14, 600 on the strap, which is fair value given the combined work schedule and timepiece functions, although its affordability is largely due to the modular ETA movement within.
A facelift of the more compact Chronomat model, the Beritling watch Super Chronomat B01 forty four is essentially the same watch in a larger format with more aggressive styling. Still fitted with the actual trademark “rider” tabs at the quarters, the particular bezel now features a ceramic insert honestly, that is virtually scratch-resistant.
All models in the Super Chronomat collection are available on either the Rouleaux (or “roller”) bracelet or a Rouleaux-inspired rubber strap. Moulded to have a tri-texture finish, typically the rubber band has a three-dimensional front which is meant to evoke the namesake bracelet.
The Breitling Relatively Chronomat B 01 is powered by the Caliber 01, Breitling’s in-house movement found in often the brand’s higher-end chronographs, including the flagship Navitimer. Not only does it boast the handy 70-hour power reserve, it is also a quickly constructed motion that features both a line wheel along with vertical clutch system.
The Turbo Chronomat is available in stainless steel with either a blue or black dial, or in 18k red gold with a brown dial. The actual 18k red gold edition is undoubtedly eye-catching, but it is expensive and not quite a “tool” watch.
Amongst the three, my pick would probably be the black switch variant with the UTC module. The aviation-instrument roots of the Chronomat are best reflected within the black call chronograph, using the nifty Universal Time Synchronised (UTC) component in the band that can track a second time zone.
Debuted inside the mid 1980s, the UTC module is essentially a simple quartz movement within an enlarger necklace link. Right now costing an extra CHF1, 200, the element is a surprisingly expensive option for what it is, but it’s a novel, retro extra.
It should be noted that the UTC module is only available with the exact black face model, at least for now. Given that Breitling once offered it as an option for most of the watches, it won’t be surprising if that is the case in the near future.
The more interesting from the two new models is the Super Chronomat 44 4 year Calendar. A semi-perpetual appointments (and also known as a quadrennial calendar), the very calendar only needs adjustment during a leap year, or even once every four years.
In terms of complexity, it sits between the simpler annual date (which needs to be once a year) and a perpetual calendar (which only requires manual intervention once each and every 100 years, or perhaps 1, 000 years in some cases).
With a traditional in addition to symmetrical 4 sub-dial layout, the watch dial features day, date, plus month displays along with a moon phase, in addition to the chronograph registers. Despite the amount of information presented, the dial remains mostly legible.
The particular quadrennial diary Chronomat comes in steel with a black switch, or a two-tone variant having a blue call.
Between the 2, I would certainly opt for the dark dial : its utilitarian look feels more in keeping with Breitling’s spirit. Like its B01 chronograph sibling, its bezel also has any ceramic insert, though concealed with 18 carat red precious metal tabs.
Beneath the hood may be the Caliber 20, which is essentially an ETA 2892 along with twin modules on top, one a Dubois Dépraz time counter module and the other the main in-house “1461” module. Typically the movement is actually COSC-certified and has a 42-hour power reserve.
